Command and control in wargames.

I recently came across an interesting discussion on TMP about command and control (C2) in Napoleonic wargames (it's here if you want to read it [TMP] "Command and Control rules in Napoleonic Rule Sets" Topic).  Which of course got me to thinking about how this is handled in Valour and Fortitude (Spoiler Alert - it isn't covered in any detail).  For me the lack of any certainty in C2 is a key part of pre modern wargame period and as such should be included in most rule sets.  So of course I started tinkering based upon the ideas thrown up in the forum posts.  Oh it's worth bearing in mind that some of my posts are an attempt to clarify concepts I have in my mind by writing them down in way that other people (that's you BTW) can follow.  This is one of those posts!

I have written it down so there can be no confusion! Thirteen fish and chips but no salt or vinegar on mine.  Grouchy wants haddock, Ney wants sole and the rest are cod.  Ten mushy peas and three curry sauces, and bring the change back!  Do you understand the order?

As I see it the issues boil down to:

1.  Who can give orders or change orders, 
2.  What trigger events should allow the initial orders to be changed,
3.  How many orders can be issued per turn per commander,
4. What should those orders be,
5.  How long do they take to get to subordinates,
6.  How to model failures in arrival and mistakes in applying them,
7. Who can only execute the orders.

Some or all of the above have variable answers based upon the level a game is set at of course.  A game set at army level may not use individual battalions to execute orders.  Instead it may only go down to brigade level.  On the other hand a game set at corps or a division level may go down the command structure to battalion level.  This also impacts the scope for initiative to be used as a battalion commander will see less of the battlefield events than a division command as he is busy at the down and dirty end of the fight!  That means that they see less events that might trigger a change of orders, its a kind of target fixation.  

So lets look at a full army level C2 position and go through it step by step.

1. Who can give orders or change orders

Obviously the overall commander can issue orders to any subordinate.  I'd also consider that at the other end battalion commanders have no scope to change their orders, they just have to execute them.  In between those two extremes things are a bit cloudier though.  Corps, division and brigade commanders are given an objective but have some scope to decide how to achieve that, although that reduces as you move down the chain of command.  I could see an argument for brigade commanders to be in same boat as battalion commanders

2.  What trigger events should allow the initial orders to be changed

Another obvious starting point here, if a commander isn't aware of a thing it can't trigger a change.  This is linked to my comment on target fixation.  The nearer to the fighting a commander is the less he sees of the overall picture.  Also the lower down the chain of command the less they should be focussed on anything beyond their formations objective.  I'm considering some kind of situational awareness limit on what a subordinate commander can react to.

3. How many orders can be issued per turn per commander and what should they be

How many orders can be issued a turn depends on how decisive a commander is and how long a turn length is being used.  Note that decisive is not the same as good, a commander can be decisive (i.e. quick to make decisions) and still get the decisions and hence the new orders wrong!  

As for turn length V&F doesn't define things like time and ground scale, which is an issue to my mind,  I had to do it myself based on weapon ranges in the rules compared to reality.  For 6mm figures I eventually settled in 1cm to 20 yards/paces/metres (I'm not picky at 6mm scales).  From that I could approximate turn length from movement distances.  Infantry movement tuns out to be around 80 paces/turn in line which using an average of British and French normal marching pace length and rate gives just under a 90 second turn!  For an army level game this seems far too short to me.  How I wish the designer had done some math rather than using what felt right (see my note at the end)! So lets fudge the answer and call a turn 30 minutes.  So that's how long a general has to digest information and spit out any changes to orders.  

Lets also decide that generals come in only five flavours excellent, good, average, poor and bloody useless (aka atrocious).  The better the grade the more new orders can be generated each turn.

4. What should those orders be

I'm on firmer ground here as I considered this topic when writing my pike and shot rules and one suggested solution on the TMP forum matches my view.  So initial and new orders should be one of the following:

Attack an objective [a named location or formation] then once that is achieved change to defend

2.       Defend [a named location]

3.       Manoeuvre [to a named location] if attacked this changes to defend.  This includes a retire order

4.       Reserve – Standing by awaiting an order 1-3  

5. How long do they take to get to subordinates

Another fairly straight forward aspect.  Calculate the number of moves for a horse at maximum move rate to go between general and subordinate and at the end of that number of moves the messenger should arrive.  Once the new orders should be with the subordinate roll a D6 on a 1-2 they arrive straight away on a 3-6 they are delayed dice again next turn.  Remember the subordinate doesn't know new orders are coming so doesn't know they are delayed or even that the messenger was killed on route.  If after double the transit time the message hasn't arrived the commander may resend an order as the aide has not returned and can be assumed to be wounded or dead.

6. How to model failures in arrival and mistakes in applying them

If no new orders arrive the subordinate continues to follow his previous instructions unless he is entitled to issue orders to his subordinates.  If he is at the end of the food chain tough.  Carry out the last order until the morale test lets you run away!  otherwise some kind of test to see if the subordinate has the brains to see a change is needed.  A poor or atrocious commander may also misinterpret orders.  So roll a D6; on a 1 take more aggressive action, on a 2-5 follow orders and on a 6 take less aggressive action than ordered.

7. Who can only execute the orders.

As with point one this depends on the level of action being covered by the rules.  For army level games I would suggest that Battalions have no ability to change orders so can only execute the order given.  All other links in the chain have to execute their orders subject to discretion on how to do that.  That discretion should reduce the lower down the chain a subordinate is.  For example a brigade commander might be allowed to keep and decide when to release a reserve but little else.  A division commander might be able to determine what each brigade shall do to achieve his objective but can't change the overall objective.  While a Corps commander (especially a French one) is entirely free to make any decision they see fit unless given a direct order to follow.  Allied Corps should be prone to doing their own thing especially if Spanish.

Next time I will try and put some flesh on the bones of this post by creating some rule ideas for C2 for V&F.

Notes

I found a rather useful article on line on march rates here > Napoleonic Infantry March Rates – Rod's Wargaming <.  The opinion of the author, based on Dundas' drill regulations of 1792 is that lines and attack columns did not march at different rates.  So that's a popular wargames rule trope busted.

White paint pens

One of the trickier aspects of painting the MDF figures which have been occupying my time recently are the cross belts.  I'm over 70 now and the eyes are not as good as they were, so painting very thin white lines becomes a hit and miss task at best.  So I decided to try one of the newer technologies available paint pens for this.  After a bit of research (Ok two minutes reading Amazon reviews) I took the plunge and bought a pack of four from Pinturale Arts.  These are two each of 0.7mm and 0.5mm tipped pens which I hoped would create the fine lines I need for cross belts and the edging to horse blankets.  I have used permanent ink pens for a number of years but find that they are not always as light fast as claimed so I was not entirely convinced that these would do what they said on the tin.

These are they (or them?).

The pens them selves are quite slim so probably don't hold much paint but at under £10 for four that is less of a worry than with the more expensive makes.

Sorry about the image quality but, you know, a pen is a pen

To use them simply shake for 30 seconds and pump the nib a few times to prime it and off you go.  I tried out the 0.7mm nib and as expected the line was wider than 0.7mm but not by too much and once some of the ink had flowed it became a little more precise.  Coverage was good and it is easy to get a line unlike my attempts with a size 00 brush!  The label showing the nib size was hard to see so I took the precaution of writing on the barrels with a Sharpie so I can see what's what easily.  Once I have some more infantry ready to paint I will try the smaller nib on cross belts and report back.

Napoleonic reinforcements and painting confusion

 As mentioned in my last post I came home from holiday to find my order from Commission Figurines sitting on the door mat.  I wasted very little time before getting them sorted out.  Well I say wasted, does unpacking the car, taking suitcases upstairs, the washing to the utility room (AKA a cupboard with a washing machine and tumble drier) and feeding the dog count as wasted?  Don't bother answering Mrs E has firm views on these things and I'm not going to argue.  But sorted they eventually were.

The point of this order was to give the French something like parity with the British on a battalion to battalion basis.  I get less French infantry units from each pack than I do British as I base them with more figures per base, so I needed to balance things out.  Of course I completely blew that plan by also buying packs for creating British allies in the form of Portuguese and Spanish infantry.  Of course, it's the latter nation which is causing the painting confusion.

All of you Napoleonic War old hands will already have faced this particular problem.  It's the Spanish supply system, or rather lack of one that's the issue.  They had uniform regulations, but once the French controlled (and I'm using controlled in it's loosest sense here) most of Spain, Spanish uniform was, well, not particularly uniform!  I make it three sets of official uniform regulations, plus various ad hoc uniforms followed by at least one set of British supplied kit on top.  Most of which seem to have been in use at the same time or at least overlapped each other to a fairly large extent.  Oh how I have enjoyed researching the topic.  It's safe to say that my brain hurts at the moment.

First two Spanish Battalions one militia (brown coats) and one Regular Army (White)

I'm currently looking at the period before British supplies started to arrive in bulk, which was from around 1811.  So I finally decide that to aid identification old regular army and militia should be in white, but with a sprinkling of brown.  New volunteers and new militia should be in brown and later war units in blue coats.  Light Infantry will vary and any formed guerrilla units will be a hodgepodge of colours but predominantly browns.  Head gear will be Bicornes, round hats (the top hat looking things) or shakoes as required.  Bicornes for early war regulars and militia, top hats (actually stovepipe shakos as the brims don't show at 6mm) for local Junta raised militia and volunteers and French style shakoes for later war or units who pop up as wearing them early in the war.  All of which is probably subject to change as things progress across the painting table!

Rear view of the above.  The engraved detail is not bad at all.

From what I can see the engraved relief on the backs of the figures is created by laser engraving 'pecking' out small chunks of the MDF.  The detail is rather surprising if that is the technique used.  Flags are freebies from the the net sourced from M S Foy's excellent blog Prometheus in Aspic Prometheus in Aspic: Homebrewed Flags - more 1809 Spanish and another excellent site  'JJ's Wargames Blog' JJ's Wargames.  The latter being especially helpful with advice on uniforms for the Spanish.

Thankfully for the Portuguese hardly varied their uniforms at all probably as they had a decent supply system after 1808! 

Back from the Lake district

Not that you probably spotted that I was away!  Mrs E and I took the caravan to a rather nice caravan site between Keswick and Penrith for a few days R & R.  No TV very little internet connectivity and no blogging.  It was very relaxing.  The weather was kind and mostly only rained at night.  There is something very soothing about the sound of rain on a caravan roof, as long as you are inside the caravan at the time of course.  Our dog enjoyed the experience of running around in Crow Park and swimming in a couple of lakes and almost everywhere was dog friendly.  If you are in Keswick I can strongly recommend The eatery next to the Lakeside Theatre the food is really good and they have a few dog snacks available.

Brougham Castle Keep

Another view of the Castle

On the military front we visited Brougham Castle (pronounced Broom, so I suspect JBM has had a hand in this).  Carlisle Castle was closed while were there as it was before 10.00am and we got engrossed in other stuff (More food actually I can vouch for the chocolate cake in the Tullie Museum cafe).  On the History front we made our annual trip to Castle Rigg Stone Circle and also took in Long Meg and her Daughters as well.

Long Meg herself along with Mrs E and Mabel

Other than that we walked, drank beer and ate more than we really should have done.  It was horrible, honest.

'Surprise view' above Keswick.  Derwentwater in the foreground.

On my return my order from Commission figurines had arrived.  This consisted of one pack of Infantry in Bicornes to be used as Spanish in 1805 issue uniform or as militia, one pack of French Line with Grenadiers in Bearskins to be used for Spanish Grenadiers and French Line (I mistakenly thought it was a pack consisting of just grenadiers), two Packs of Infantry in Belgique Shakos for use as Portugeuse in Barretinas, two packs of French line in Shako, and some strips of Skirmishers and generals.  The skirmishers all seem to be French looking but at 6mm after a paint job I doubt anyone will be able to tell what style of Shako is portrayed.

I'm already wondering which packs would be the best bet for additional grenadiers for the Spanish, but won't be ordering anything until I have painted the 600 plus new figures that just arrived!  Pictures of those will follow (eventually).

Painting is back to normal

For the last few weeks painting has been a chore, not because I lost my painting mojo but because the heat made the paint go off far to quickly.  I still managed to get things done but only by dint of avoiding trying to work at the hottest part of the day.  It was the same problem with glues for basing  blink and it had gone off!  But as of this last few days we have had some very welcome rain and temperatures are actually below the seasonal average so painting is back on.

However, to paint I need good tools and I'm reluctantly coming to accept that my favourite paint brushes are coming to the end of their useful lifespan.  I can't complain they have served me well for over a decade, but their ability to hold a point has gone.  These were my first Kolinski sable brushes and to be honest they were inexpensive, given their quality, at under £5.00 a brush.  I bought some brushes from Rosemary and Co a few months back and those are very nice but I bought too many size 1 and not enough zero's or smaller.  I have to say though that I am impressed with them so far, as the points hold well even after a lot of use, and they clean fairly easily.

In respect of my painting output I have had a lot of MDF come across the painting table in the shape of the Commission Figurines Napoleonic stuff I bought at Joy of Six.  I have painted all of the British Foot I bought there, most of the French and I'm now working on some of the French mounted Dragoons.  Finding uniform details, especially for mounted types, has been a steep learning curve for someone like me with only a passing interest in the period prior to starting this project.  I used to have a hardback Osprey compilation on French Napoleonic Cavalry a few years ago but foolishly, I got rid of it as Napoleonic's were not my thing ....Doh!  Note to self never throw away reference material.

Valour and Fortitude updates

Just a quick heads up to say that the updated version of Valour and Fortitude (Version 4) is now available to down load from the Perry Miniatures website.  I have read through it and the changes are fairly minor with one exception.  Skirmishers are now automatically treated as deployed which is dealt with by giving an extended shooting range to eligible units. That means that many units now have a short and long range band rather than a single range band. Units which opt to use volley fire use the short range as they are considered to recover skirmishers first before firing (well shooting your own lads is unsporting).  Artillery also has two range bands, the short one to represent the use of cannister. Some other rules have been clarified, to deal with some issues the player base brought up.    The one exception to minor tweaking is the big reduction in shooting values for Napoleonic troops. Units which might have had a shooting factor of 3 or 4 now have a factor of 1 or 2!  This change seems to be to reflect the use of very short range fire which is part of the close assault combat.  In this it is doing the same thing Altar of Freedom does and considering assaults as a mix of short range fire fights and bayonet charges.

I don't think the changes change my view of the rules as being what I'm looking for they are still fairly simple but have subtleties hidden in the special rules for each army.

On the painting front I now have eight battalions of British painted and based along with five of French. I have French Dragoons on the painting table so I'm nearly ready for a test game. The British are line infantry with a half battalion of rifles, while the French are three Line and two Light battalions.  I have placed an order for more figures to include some that will become Portuguese and some skirmishers and commanders.

Now me being me and being unable to help myself I have made a couple of changes to the rules as written (in keeping with the spirit of the rules though, honest!).  Firstly I'm basing battalions on a single 60 x 30 mm  base.  Secondly I'm using slightly less figures per battalion than the minimum that the rules recommend.  It doesn't make a huge difference as the rules don't count figures other than to consider if a battalion is larger or smaller than the norm.  My British have 20 figures in two ranks, while the French have 30 in three ranks.  This makes depicting open order tricky so to do that I will add a 60x 15mm base of open order figures to the front of the battalion to show that status.  For march columns I will just place a marker showing the front of the column and put the battalion base at right angles to normal so the 30mm edge becomes the front.  While that means that the figures would be facing the wrong way it is a quick fix until I mount some figures in a column formation.  I'm not sure how the rules deal with the various different attack columns frontages yet but I will get my head around it eventually.  For the moment to depict an attack column I will place the 60 x 15 base at the rear of the unit. I am slowly learning about the period as before Joy of Six I didn't know that attack columns could even be on different frontages or when they were used.

One other thing I have learned is that you get an awful lot of infantry for £4.00.  Even with base costs and estimated painting and texturing costs the troops below came in at just under £6.00 all in.  Skirmish bases are not textured yet as I need to add some firing skirmish figures to each base, which should be with me in the next few days.  Flags are home printed and slightly over scale.  MDF bases from Warbases and flock, sand and glue from my existing supplies.

£4.00 for two packs of infantry gives me this!

Best Napoleonic fact I have learned so far, is that Marshall Massena lost the battle of Bussaco because he was too distracted to coordinate the attacks of his three divisions.  The reason he was distracted?  His mistress was flaunting herself topless in a hussar uniform!  I suppose that would do it.  I haven't learned which regiment of Hussar's uniform it was though.

Thoughts on ...Valour and Fortitude Napoleonic rules

Yes, alright it's yet another new rabbit hole, I know I promised not too, but they were free.  You know free, my favourite price point and all that.  It's Napoleonic's that historical period that I don't do, except that now there is a distinct possibility that I'm going to be doing them.  In my defence I'm doing it on the cheap and in 6mm (well you have to be able to see some of the uniforms) but I haven't become a button counter, honest.

The rules don't come as a book so there is no front cover to show you!

You know how it is, the figures looked nice at Joy of Six, they were cheap, oh so cheap and just one purchase couldn't hurt, could it?  Next thing you know I'm looking up Italian uniforms for the Peninsula War.  Which are white, by the way, I mean which genius thought that one up?  How did they ever think they could keep them white in the field, what with black powder weapons, and mud and blood and such like.  Mind you it will make painting them easy when I get to them.

On a slightly less over-excited topic though: the rules.  As you might know I have tried Napoleonic's a couple of times and simply couldn't find a rule set that clicked with me.  So while I was wondering what to do with nearly 400 MDF figures I started searching.  A couple of sets caught my eye but none of them were quite what I wanted.  Then I hit on Valour and Fortitude (lets call it V&F going forward) they use battalions as the combat formations but can be played with brigades as the combat unit with very little change and others have done that with no problems.  They have the right level of granularity for me and I could download them for free so if I find I don't like them all I have wasted is some printer paper and ink.

The rules are fairly simple, the core mechanisms are contained in four pages (three really as the first page is just the definitions), plus a page for a QRS and another two for optional rules, even then most of the optional rules cover changes for different scales.  On top of which, each army has a separate two page list of unit types, unit sizes and special rules, plus a fate table.  Game play is IGOUGO, with dice controlled brigade activations, the play sequence is Fate > Fire >  Action > Melee.

The fate phase is where the fate table comes in.  This is a set of thirteen events or traits that are triggered by drawing a playing card each turn.  Some are used at once others can be held onto and used in a later turn.  The effect of the cards is not huge and doesn’t look like it would have a huge impact on the game play.   Next up is shooting and units which have now decide to  shoot cannot take an action in the next phase.   The action phase is where units may choose to move, reform, double, retreat, assault or rally.  Any action requires the unit to pass an action test, although some fate cards can overrule this.  Double is used to bring reserves forward and does what the name suggests, allows a longer move.  Reforms allow changes of direction and or formation and can be combined with movement, while rallies can remove hits.

I keep reading that the rules feel like Black Powder light, but can’t comment to that having never played Black Powder.  All fairly straight forward really.  It's the Army sheets which add the granularity and flavour.  These cover most of the popular Napoleonic armies and minor nations, plus ACW, AWI and British Civil Wars. The rules and all the other free stuff can be downloaded from here Valour & Fortitude - Perry Miniatures.  These are currently (Late July 2026) the 2nd edition, version 3.1 but there is an update to Version 4 due any day now.

As soon as I have enough troops painted and based I will run a solo test game with my usual explanatory sub sections.  That may be a while as so far I have painted four French battalions and only one British one, no cavalry or artillery.  In fact I haven't even bought any artillery yet!